An early start by our standards, in the saddle at 9:30. We didn’t quite make it but close, after a quick photo session. We set off on what Maria Elena explained was an old road – because Spain’s dictatorship only ended 60 years ago, the state of development was very poor until then – that had carried traffic through the valley for centuries. Kings, merchants, peasants. It wasn’t preserved everywhere but in many places we could see its remains.

We walked all morning, the road was too narrow and rocky for any trots or canters. But we were able to enjoy the views on all sides. When I say rocky mountains, they aren’t really either rocky or mountains. There are plenty of crags but also lots of lush vegetation. We seemed to alternate between deciduous zones and evergreen zones, but we always had the mountains – hills, really, we were at about 1200 meters, Maria Elena said – in the backdrop. The scene was rather hobbitish, Louise agreed, especially since the occasional clouds added a blue cast to the hills.

It was going to be a half-day, though we covered a lot of territory. Aperitivo wasn’t until 12:30 or so, so we tucked into the fruit, cheese, ham, dry bread, beer and sherry even more eagerly than usual. Some of us  worked a little off by getting off and walking, leading the horses, for a while, it felt excellent. 

Only about 90 minutes’ ride to the extremely luxurious Izan hotel, set just outside El Barco de Avila, one of the oldest settlements on the northern side of the Gredos.

After their shower, we led the horses into their pasture for the night. “Get out your cameras,” Maria Elena said, then told us to take off their halters. Sure enough, every single one of them dropped to a roll.

 Louise and I couldn’t help but follow suit, which pleased the local paparazzi.

Then, after a long liquid outdoor lunch, Louise and I opted to skip the evening town visit, even though it included a store selling, we were told, excellent Spanish wine at bargain prices. In fact, the attendees returned full of wine and food and announced they were skipping dinner. So Louise, I, Peter, John, Joe, his son Paul and three of the staff – Veronica, Marta and Irenee – had a pleasant light meal.